170 Vs 172.5 Cranks Comparison – Which Is Better?

What’s the difference between 170 and 172.5 cranks? How do you know when to use each one, and why is it important? This post will explain these terms and their usage in order to help you be more successful on your quest for that perfect all-day adventure bike.

The reason you would ever use 172.5 cranks vs your stock 170mm pact is that they are very similar to the 39/50T chainrings, but have 6 teeth less engagement in them, thus being 6 turns smaller!

So while a 3×10 setup has 9 tooth chainset with 1:1 gear ratio (9TC = 390), it also requires half of its length to travel approximately twice as much distance when shifting up or down. So, which 170 Vs 172.5 Cranks is better?

170 Vs 172.5 Cranks

What Is a Crank Length?

What Is a Crank Length

Due to the way that human hands and feet interact with cranks, there is a small difference between 170mm and 172.5mm cranks when it comes to “proper” length. The 68cm Shimano catalog lists their 45 degree original bars 414g.

Some measurement sites may say this bar links out at 415-427 but I think they are referring more to distance from crank arms pivot point instead of actual shaft nose length.

There are similar handling benefits to shorter sticks but you also have the option of using longer bars if fork rake is not an issue for your climber, or vice versa.

I don’t think this setup will work well on all bikes but it’s just something I wanted to share based on what that same catalog says About 25% of people go smaller than 172 5/8cm and consider getting stem-length quickly.

What Is a 52/42t Chainring?

What Is a 52/42t Chainring

52 X 17T = 431mm (18 size) – – Translation: A 53 tooth tick in the smallest available gear with 54 teeth on the bigger ring!

Another term for these rings is an “X4” setup, because it has four larger than normal rings and smaller ones even though most people don’t know that they technically have 5 of each.

It is a way for big ring riders to “cheat” and make it work, or gain more speed on a climb. You can also use these rings successfully as children of grown up bikes due to the smaller circumference gears .

In this situation 44t chainring replaced 52T whereas 53 MTB chainrings would be used instead of 42t tubulars (riding 38 X 19) I don’t know what setup that.

Cur ado is on but it does not appear to be the largest possible crank where one would use a double and triple chainring setup. I highly recommend using indexed shifter levers with double or fixed length.

Because partial adjuvant engagement can cause issues for people who have short fingers compared to bigger knuckles .

This spider type shifter might work but may require more force than standard lever due to nonlinear leverage ratio of such super low level wrench.

Less I weigh about 150lbs and stand around 5’4″ i don’t recommend any rings less than 42t for this size of bike. This setup might work ok on kids bikes that come in different sizes but it probably won’t be ideal for them since they usually have fairly narrow gears.

Difference Between 170 Vs 172.5 Cranks

Difference Between 170 Vs 172.5 Cranks

For its time, the early 1980s was a different sport than it is now. | It looks like modern riders know between about 180 and 210 mm so if you hate your knees today but still use old school crank measurements then I’m curious what they’ve been doing for all these years?

After reading Andreas Lede’s blog post “A 5-year anniversary evaluation of the crankbrazed mountain biking technology” which has links to an interesting series of blog postings about IMBA’s crank standards there’s not much doubt that the minimum diameter was either too small or too large for today’s bikes.

There is also no question but maybe some variation among different geo locations and even by builders however the main point i’ve tried to make in my own experience with rim brake vs disc brakes on semi rigid polyurethane wheels.

Is that it has caused the rim brakes to fail more often than not even with housing diameters of 32 and 33 mm (probably wider tires aren’t as bad) and my preference is disc or near discs.

There’s plenty of anecdotal evidence too, there’s an entire industry built around fixing them and I feel like we’re due for a crash .

I’m interested in what others think about this issue but there seems no reason why such huge variation in rim brake durability cannot be the result of differences between builders, geo locations and riding conditions.

I would not expect all bike geeks to come up with this same opinion but i am having fun seeing what others are thinking so please continue blogging this issue on both sides of the divide.

The idea that 3/8″ might work as a desirable compromise seems fascinating , here’s hoping it’s something we can see happen at some point where rims can be made with a traditional width of 32mm for both rigid and semi-rigid.

So the question is, after being stuck with a set of wheels that weren’t meant for 26″ tires i can’t really recommend them to anyone else. If you think they’d be good enough for your needs tell me why in the comments below. .

Reasons to Use 172.5 Cranks Over 170mm Pact

Reasons to Use 172.5 Cranks Over 170mm Pact

I’ve had more than a few inquiries lately about focal lengths for people with short legs and small eaters. After confusion over the correct distance to measure between axles,

Some people seem to be asking me why they can’t use 170mm chainring/pact spacing?? As long as we’re here i’ll mention another reason you might want 172.5 cranks: A lower axle pivot machining cost .

Because there is such little play on the pivot pin bearing surfaces the crank assembly needs to be much stronger and large diameters should probably be used.

So 172.5 cranks result in an axle that is just a bit larger than 170mm spacing but does not require bore drilling, thus saving you time and money for both grinding out oversized bearings as well as machining new axles.

If you think chainring/pact choice shouldn’t be based on means but goals do let me know in the comments.

Ways of Knowing When to Use Each One, and Why Its Importance

It seems like this question is often bugged, and i’m going to try and address it here in a few ways: 4a.

On the bike : keep your jersey pockets free of cable ties to avoid slowing yourself down when making crucial moves (and maybe getting tangled up) there’s one version that matches frame decals enough well so you don’t even need cables , which lowers cost but increases time trial weight 5c .

In life: determine what works best for you The biggest deciding factor will be what kind of riding do you plan on performing, if your goal is to start off running errands with the bike afterward then not having a fixed position stem might actually come in handy.

However if how fast times are being broken across the country right now has any bearing I’d say get something that fits well and put it up or down as needed 6 & 7 . Lastly there are plenty of products out there that are provided in fixed position , whether you prefer them is up to you

No choice method riders with an extreme penchant for choices will want another option without the need of a wrench i’m all ears.

Ways of Choosing My Chainring Size for Your Bike

Ways of Choosing My Chainring Size for Your Bike

It seems like this question was far too easy to be answered, and i’m going all out on delivering a complete guide as well as information that isn’t very readily available (even though it looks like there’s plenty of video options)

The early history of Bicycle Touring – By Dr Alfred E Donnell Also known as the Willys-Overland Company, it has been in business since 1919 .

A name most will be familiar with due to its numerous road bikes that continue on today but these days they carry under their belt a bike for use by single speed cyclists, centering around many variants that have made their way into production.

For more information regarding this company see their wiki page. A Brief History of Single Speed Safety Bicycle Racing Main article featuring the origins, growth and decline to the modern state single speed cycling takes today.

If you’re wondering why stuff is so ruff around here, well just try seeing what it’s like out there in cyberspace then!

The Benefits of Reducing Your Crank Length

The Benefits of Reducing Your Crank Length

Stride Length- This is a measure of the total distance traveled for a given period of time, usually in revolutions per minute. “Every thread you start adds one more when it’s finished.” – George Bernard Shaw.

On an old Low Flange Hub I used to have back when I was playing with SS bikes. There are some factors unaccounted for in conventional measurements that can add up to quite a bit over varying lengths and fell good reasons to go for actual measurements. So, what Stg stands for?

-Gain Side clearance = The distance side spring assemblies can clear the rims at mid bottom crank position before reaching their minimum vertical extent -Ground Clearance = Similar to above but refers to any overhang of chainset from sprockets or pedal axle itself

This graph shows how much gear reduction occurs when you reduce your spokes bight by 3mm. Hover over parts of the graph to view additional info.

This is an actual measurement on a SRAM Force CX1 Mid-Range built using White Industries 24 hole rims laced to DT Swiss 300’s or Shimano 7700 hubs with Lekkie Bluthner one piece freehubs (moved tilt forward for this bike).

This shows some benefits when you reduce your spokes bight by 3mm, namely less drag due to increased side clearance. I prefer the angle shown above to help me get a better feel of what’s going on with my wheels, given that there is risk associated with having this off.

Consider how it might look or disappear depending if you have a DL or SL9 type brake set up and also depending on your frame style/geometry. Reducing Crank Length can increase Ground Clearance , helping prevent cog jump while giving room for bigger tires in wet weather.

Why are standard cranks the length they are?

Why are standard cranks the length they are

There’s no one right answer when it comes to crank length. It all depends on your needs and preferences. That said, a standard crank length of 170 mm is the standard because it provides good power and efficiency. Shorter cranks are typically used in smaller engines, while longer cranks are more common in larger engines. Additionally, crank length base on engine design – shorter cranks are typically used in smaller engines, while longer cranks are more common in larger engines.

How To Measure Crank Length?

How to measure crank length

The crank length on your bike can be a bit of a mystery, but it doesn’t have to be. Make sure your cranks are compatible with your bike by checking the range of Crank Length options available. Calculating crank length is 170 minus your pedal stroke count (PSC). For example, if you have 175 PSC, your crank length would be 170 – 175 = 5 cm. When measuring crank length, use a straight edge to ensure accurate results.

Is there an optimum crank length?

Is there an optimum crank length

When it comes to crank length, there is no definitive answer. 170 vs 172.5 cranks seem to be the most popular option right now. However, each cyclist will have his or her preferences. The key is finding the best length for you and your riding style. Both lengths offer good power transfer and are comfortable for long rides. So, which one should you choose? It’s a personal preference which one you should choose based on your riding style and bike setup. As long as you’re happy with the power and comfort you’re getting from the crank length you choose, that’s all that matters.

How Does Crank Length Affect Power Output?

How Does Crank Length Affect Power Output
Anna Horvath and Kenji Upadhyaya in British Columbia, Canada

Choosing the right crank length for your bike is important because it affects the power output. 172.5mm cranks have become increasingly popular because they offer the same power as 170mm cranks without the added length. This shorter crank length most commonly use in road and mountain biking applications. Choosing which crank length to use depends on your application and preferences. 170mm cranks provide a longer stroke, which results in more power output.


1. Should I Get One of Each to Test Them Out Before Making My Final Decision?

If you are considering getting a different hair color or hair style, then yes. If you are just considering buying one of the two products, then no.

One of the main reasons to buy both is that they have different features and benefits. For example, if you were going to get a blow dryer, it would be beneficial to test out more than one type before deciding which one to buy.

However, if you are interested in buying one of the two products without having used them before making a decision, then no.

It is always wise to test out more than one set of tools and accessories . Just due to cost differences between brands and variations along any dimension (molecule length) would be unwise.

However do also remember that sometimes 1:1 or 2:1 ratio may not provide full satisfaction for all users so compromise might well be the best route.

2. What Is a Threaded Tapered Bottom Bracket?

This type of bottom bracket has threading along the length of two outer shell halves so that it can later go out to a larger spindle dimension or in for a smaller spindle dimension using either open pulley bearing cups or sided cup bearings.

It sometimes also uses an adjustable movable flange nut (threads) to allow you to change from one type of spindle thickness to another.

The “threaded” part occurs along the outer shapes or shells, with most threading happening along the inner shape – facing shell halves which are solely used for bearing contact (and in some cases is their only use).

The threaded bottom bracket configuration offers triple advantages at once; one more than ordinary ones; they allow changing out different sized output spindles without having to re-spindle yourself.

This is hugely beneficial for those people, who may prefer a smaller spindle size to be used with a “downturned” crank which involves using an adjustable bottom bracket installation tool.

Another advantage is, unlike square taper bearings it allows the use of much wider range if available sizes without having to change your crankset itself! This aspect alone makes this device worth considering as long as you can afford such large jumps in dimension (usually between two sizes.

3. Does It Matter Which One I Use, Either Way Will Give Me Good Results?

It does matter which one you use.

(a) Paying a monthly fee for a cloud-based service is cheaper than renting your own server space and purchasing a physical computer.

(b) A cloud-based solution will also be more secure as it doesn’t require the user to purchase hardware or worry about backups, etc.

(c) Cloud solutions are usually faster as they can scale up or down depending on how much work is needed at any given time without the need for upgrades of hardware.

(d) Security is often overlooked with self-hosted hardware but there are some basic security features built into Amazon’s EC2 instance; like encryption of data and proper logging procedures to prevent against malicious intruders from accessing the server at all times.

(e) If any kind of disaster strikes you can always power off your computer for a few minutes, pull out the solid state drive or hard disk, remove RAM or install an upgrade version and copy over your backed up data to a new location!

4. Are Shorter Cranks Better?

The answer to this question is very complicated. There are many factors that go into choosing the best crank length for your bike.

First, you need to understand what type of riding you will be doing on your bike and what type of crankset would work best for it. Some riders prefer shorter cranks while others like longer ones because they can change their cadence and get a smoother ride with them.

The next step is understanding the strengths and weaknesses of each size and how it will affect your riding style. For example, if you plan on using your bike primarily for climbing, then choose a smaller crank length with wider-spaced rings in order to get more pedal power without having to use too much effort at high cadences.

If you plan on doing primarily downhill or flat terrain where there isn’t much steepness or difficulty, then choose a larger-spaced ring set with slightly shorter cranks to reduce the risk of skipping gears when going down hill.

Alternatively, you can try to use the full travel of your up-hill gear which will allow you to maintain high speed power without torque loss or skipping gears.

Most people recommend choosing a crank length based on their own personal needs and preference. However, when trying out different cranks make sure that they fit properly onto your hub after adjusting the pedal spindle(crown) back angle from parallel with it’s superior position (toe).


It is best to try out different cranks and find the one that fits your riding style. If you are primarily doing climbing, then choose a smaller-spaced ring set with shorter cranks. If you are looking to do mainly downhill, then try a larger-spaced ring set with slightly shorter cranks.

Ask the salesperson which will give you more efficiency and pedal power while remaining easy enough on your knees or ankles that they can use it for their riding style as well even though the crank length is different from theirs. I hope now you understand 170 Vs 172.5 Cranks.

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